1. South Shetland Islands: An idiosyncratic landscape
land in sight! After two and a half days on the high seas, we can at least get a glimpse of what this sentence means for old sea dogs. The Beagle Channel and the Drake Passage we have left behind. Before us lies South Shetland, a sub-Antarctic archipelago. The South Shetland Islands are politically part of Antarctica and are therefore covered by the Antarctic Treaty. Like the Seventh Continent, the South Shetland Islands are currently owned by no one but their animal residents. So we've arrived.
Many passengers are wrapped up on the deck of the Sea Spirit, others enjoy the view with a windbreaker and a hot cup of tea on the balcony, a few people cling to the pane from the inside and the rest sit in the lobby with the picture window. No matter how: everyone stares outside, because there the lonely, rough landscape of the South Shetland Islands passes us by.
Unreal and beautiful in its own unique way. And that's precisely why we're here: to marvel at this unique idiosyncrasy. No pleasing colors, no postcard images of turquoise blue, palm trees, and white sandy beaches. No. Instead, dark cliffs, snow-capped mountain peaks, meter-high snowdrifts, and jagged ice-fall edges of ancient glaciers drift in the endless gray-blue of the Southern Ocean. Land and sky merge, embrace, unite in tone—only to finally dissolve into a delicate white-gray.
Glacier jutting into the sea South Shetland Islands Antarctic cruise on the expedition ship Sea Spirit
Glacier landscape South Shetland Islands Antarctic cruise with the expedition ship Sea Spirit
South Shetland Islands - Glaciers and Mountains of the Sub-Antarctic Islands - Sea Spirit Antarctic Voyage
Landscape of the South Shetland Islands - Subantarctic Islands - Antarctic Voyage on the Sea Spirit
Glaciers to the Sky - South Shetland Islands - Subantarctic Islands - Sea Spirit Antarctic Voyage
Chinstrap penguin jumping in front of an iceberg in the Southern Ocean - Chinstrap penguin profile
We pay our respects to the sub-Antarctic and literally soak up the sight of the first cold islands. We are indeed here. incarnate. Next to the gatekeepers of Antarctica. Our fingers are slowly getting stiff, the wind is knotting our hair and yet our smile is getting bigger. The ship has set course for Halfmoon Island. During the briefing by our expedition leader, we learned that this South Shetland island is particularly well known for its colony of chinstrap penguins. When the first penguins jump through the waves next to the ship's hull, it's clear: we're already very close.
2. South Shetland Island Halfmoon Island: Extended family of chinstrap penguins & co
Everyone on deck! Jackets, rubber boots and life jacket. Here we go. The Expedition Team Sea Spirit has found a good spot for our first landing and is already launching the remaining Zodiacs. With these small inflatable boats for extreme conditions, we will visit many wonderful places in the next few days. One look at the waves, a sailor's grip, a bold step and we are already sitting in the rubber boat and speeding towards our first landing on Halfmoon Island.
Chinstrap penguins in front of the Poseidon Expeditions expedition ship
Dream landscape in Half Moon Island with penguins
Shore leave Half Moon Island on Antarctic voyage
Chinstrap penguins (Pygoscelis antarctica) and landscape from Halfmoon Island - Sea Spirit Antarctic Expedition
A waddling reception committee
We have barely set foot on Halfmoon Island when the first little waddlers come towards us – four chinstrap penguins form the reception committee. White bellies, black backs, and an incredibly cute face: white with a black crest, black beak, and a thin line across the cheeks. The quartet relaxedly preened between shimmering blue blocks of ice and then waddled hop, hop, hop across the dark pebble beach.
Only after an extensive photo session can we tear ourselves away from the cute penguins. I would love to watch them for hours, but we still have a bit of a walk ahead of us. The best is yet to come, because we are here to reach the breeding colony of chinstrap penguins on Halfmoon Island. The reception was perfect and the four penguins are kind enough to accompany us a little way along the beach.
Dilapidated relics of the whaling era
On our way we pass a small dilapidated wooden boat. It is proof that, unfortunately, even in this remote place, humans have already overexploited the land. For those who are interested, a member of the expedition team reveals the dark secret: the inconspicuous boat wreck was an old whaling boat.
Exploring Halfmoon Island on foot
A few meters further up the hill, we spot a White-faced Buckbill, a typical bird of the Antarctic region. In the distance, we can already see the colony of chinstrap penguins on Halfmoon Island. The first passengers have already reached their destination, but there is far too much to discover along the way for us to move forward quickly. We slowly follow the route of red flags that the team has marked out for us. This way, everyone can explore Halfmoon Island at their own pace. A very pleasant system.
The Wildlife of Halfmoon Island
Several fat fur seals cavort in the bay, a single female elephant seal lies in between, chinstrap penguins sit on small snowfields and glaciers and mountains tower in the background. On another stretch of coast, a couple of us suddenly waddle gentoo penguins They are similar in size to chinstrap penguins, but have a black head with a large white patch above the eye and a striking orange beak. There's so much to see!
Finally, we reach the colony of chinstrap penguins on Halfmoon Island. In small groups (which seem very, very large to us on our first day, because we can compare them to South Georgia do not know yet) the animals stand close together. They are in the middle of the moult and give a funny picture.
Chinstrap penguins and their moulting
Some penguins look extremely fat: puffed up, fluffy and so plush that you would just like to cuddle them. Some are completely ragged and look like an old patchwork quilt, while others have been elegantly smoothed out and have new, snow-white feathers. The floor is covered in soft down and all in all, the little penguins remind us very much of black and white down pillows after an extensive pillow fight.
Chinstrap penguin (Pygoscelis antarctica) moulting - South Shetland Islands Halfmoon Island - Sea Spirit Antarctic cruise expedition
Chinstrap penguins (Pygoscelis antarctica) moulting on Halfmoon Island - Sea Spirit Antarctic Expedition
Chinstrap Penguins (Pygoscelis antarctica) moulting - South Shetland Islands Halfmoon Island - Sea Spirit Antarctic Expedition Voyage
Chinstrap penguins (Pygoscelis antarctica), also known as chinstrap penguins, live in Antarctic waters
Chinstrap Penguin (Pygoscelis antarctica) moulting - South Shetland Islands - Chinstrap Penguin Halfmoon Island - Antarctic Expedition Sea Spirit
Chinstrap Penguins (Pygoscelis antarctica) on Halfmoon Island - Sea Spirit Antarctic Expedition
Chinstrap Penguin on Halfmoon Island - Poseidon Antarctic Expedition with the Sea Spirit
This is where our route ends for today. Two crossed flags signal a halt. This far and no further. The penguins need peace and quiet during the moulting period. They can only feed again once they have completely molted their feathers. Penguins moult all their feathers at once, a process known as catastrophic moult, a birdwatcher from the expedition team explains. In their current state, they are not waterproof and therefore cannot possibly hunt in the icy waves of the Southern Ocean. Fasting is the order of the day. To conserve energy, the animals move little. Therefore, it is important not to stress them and to maintain a respectful distance. So we sit down, in silence, and enjoy the view over the colony of chinstrap penguins on Halfmoon Island.
The Scent of Antarctica
Slowly we come to rest, put the cameras aside and take in this special moment. The mountains tower in the background and in front of us cute balls of feathers are dozing. We have arrived. I take a deep breath and, for the first time, consciously perceive the peculiar scent of the penguins. They have their very own, spicy smell. I let my eyes wander happily. I think they smell like space. This is the scent of Antarctica I want to remember.
3. South Shetland Island Deception Island: The first iceberg & A volcanic crater full of water
I open my eyes early in the morning and of course my first look is at the window. A beautiful mountainous landscape is already passing by there. So get out of bed and into the expedition jacket! We can sleep at home again. The last tiredness quickly dissipates in the Antarctic wind. I breathe crystal clear morning air and as the morning sun climbs the peaks, we glide past a beautiful glacial ridge that reaches down to the sea.
Eventually, the outline of Deception Island begins to take shape. Our goal for today. Deception means deception. A fitting name for an island that is actually an active volcano. No one would expect to be able to take the ship to their midst. Due to collapses and subsequent erosion of the crater rim, the partially emptied magma chamber was flooded with seawater. Once discovered, man has used this protective natural harbor for himself ever since.
Deception Island Arrival South Shetland Islands - Sea Spirit Antarctic Expedition Cruise
Deception Island Glacial Edge South Shetland Islands - Sea Spirit Antarctic Voyage
Our first iceberg on an Antarctic cruise
Suddenly a structure in the distance catches my attention. iceberg ahead!
Iceberg at Neptunes Bellows Deception Island South Shetland Islands - Sea Spirit Antarctic cruise
Indeed, our first iceberg. A massive beautiful colossus. Angular, rough and unpolished. A real floating mountain of snow and ice. While I'm still looking for the perfect image cut, I'm amazed again at how many shades of white nature has come up with.
Hard white with a hint of gray-blue, the iceberg floats in front of Deception Island. But the narrow coastal strip of South Shetland Island only becomes visible at second glance. Radiant and snow-white in the truest sense of the word, it shines delicately from behind the iceberg. Only to then appear to be reflected in the sky, through which the clouds run in white-grey and milky-white paths, while crystal-white crests of foam crown the Ozan. I'm sure: Nowhere else in the world will white appear as colorful to me as in Antarctica.
Entering the caldera of Deception Island
Finally, the ship approaches a narrow gap in the island's rock massif and our captain steers directly towards it. Deception Island is announced via loudspeaker and soon all passengers are standing at the railing to enter the Sea Spirit into the natural harbor of Deception Island. The narrow entrance to the flooded caldera is also called Neptune's Bellow's because strong winds often whistle through the constriction.
On the right a dark cliff rises, on the left a rising mountain range with colorful rock formations. If you look closely, you will see many small dots on the near-oceanic plateau. And the dots are penguins. The erosion gap that we drive is adorned with washed boulders and a free-standing rock needle. Breathlessly amazed, we alternately turn to the right and left, then we're done.
Protecting mountains rise around us, and the water becomes calm. What we perceive as mountains is the crater rim. We are floating in the middle of the seawater lagoon of a flooded volcanic crater, at the center of a still-active volcano below us. The idea is bizarre. But nothing around us indicates this spectacular fact, and we feel completely safe. Is this security deceptive? We learn in the scientific lecture that evening that the floor of the caldera is currently rising by around 30 centimeters every year.
Sea Spirit Crosses Neptunes Bellows Deception Island South Shetland Islands - Antarctic Expedition Cruise
Penguin colony and volcanic landscape at Neptunes Bellows Deception Island South Shetland Islands - Sea Spirit Antarctica Voyage
Sea Spire in front of Neptunes Bellows Deception Island South Shetland Islands - Sea Spirit Antarctic cruise
Something is in motion. It's probably a good thing that we don't know that exactly yet. Full of expectation we stand at the railing and look forward to the day on Deception Island relaxed and excited.
Today, hiking is the order of the day in Telefon Bay: in the middle of nowhere in the volcanic landscape of Deception Island. Red flags mark the way so that every passenger of the Sea Spirit can walk at his own pace. We decide to simply walk the marked route in the opposite direction. Only a handful of people do the same as us and climb up the steep mountain that everyone else will later walk down. It is worth swimming against the current: we are not only rewarded with fantastic views, but above all with a wonderful feeling of solitude.
View of the seawater filled caldera - Deception Island - South Shetland Islands - Sea Spirit Antarctic cruise
From up here, you can see the entire lagoon. Our expedition ship is floating in the center and suddenly looks tiny compared to the size of this gigantic crater. From a bird's eye view, we can see the shape of the crater on Deception Island much better and gradually get a feel for what our expedition team had previously explained.
After a meditative pause, we continue: a little further up. We stop frequently to enjoy the view back. Only from this height do we clearly see the beautiful turquoise shimmering outcrop of the crater lagoon, along with a second, much smaller lake, shimmering yellowishly towards us.
Huge Volcanic Crater with Lagoons - Deception Island South Shetland Islands - Sea Spirit Antarctica Voyage
We're a little lacking in snow, so we haven't really gotten that Antarctic feeling yet. This is probably the downside of traveling in March, the end of summer in the Southern Hemisphere. Our advantage: We'll see significantly more of Deception Island's volcanic landscape, which is otherwise hidden under a uniform blanket of snow.
Volcano Craters and Landscape of Deception Island South Shetland Islands - Sea Spirit Antarctic Voyage
When we have reached the highest point, the first hikers come towards us. Embedded in the expanse of Deception Island, they appear small and inconspicuous, despite the bright red expedition jackets. From gently rising hills we look down into a weather-beaten and deeply indented volcanic landscape.
Volcanic Craters on Deception Island South Shetland Islands - Sea Spirit Antarctic Voyage
We take our time, enjoying the view and capturing beautiful photo opportunities. Nevertheless, we completed the circular route faster than most. As trekking enthusiasts, we're used to rocky terrain and are just getting warmed up. Since we missed the exercise during our days at sea anyway, we decide to simply walk the route again.
And so we enjoy the highlights of Telefon Bay twice: volcanic soils, mountainous expanses, great views, tiny people, sparkling lagoons and deeply carved valleys.
Then it's time for lunch: today with a delicious barbecue on the deck of the Sea Spirit, in the middle of the flooded caldera of Deception Island. Island mountains in the background and fresh sea air in the air – lunch tastes twice as good. Well-nourished, everyone is ready for the next landing.
Landing Whalers Bay Deception Island South Shetland Islands - Sea Spirit Antarctic Expedition Cruise
The Whalers Bay of Deception Island is a first-class lost place. Nevertheless, it is visited by the guests of the Sea Spirit perceived very differently. The statements vary from "Fantastic photo opportunities" to "You have to see it at least once" to "What am I doing here?". They are talking about the rusty remains of the former whaling station and the dilapidated buildings from the eventful history of this South Shetland island. But at the end of the day we all agree: Thanks to Mother Nature, the trip was a complete success for nature lovers too.
In the first half of the 20th century, Deception Island was dominated by seal hunting, whaling, and the processing of whales in the southernmost blubber factory in the world: a sad past. During World War II, the British destroyed all the facilities, fearing they might fall into German hands. We stand helplessly before the ruins of the past, staring at the huge rust-red tanks, and eerie images conjure up in our minds.
Photo shoot with Antarctic fur seals
Then we do the only logical thing: We throw ourselves into a photo shoot with sugar-sweet Antarctic fur seals.
Also known as fur seals, the beautiful animals were nearly wiped out during Deception Island's Dark Years. But fortunately they have returned, have multiplied successfully and have now reclaimed their habitat. They seem to know that they no longer have anything to fear from humans and remain perfectly calm despite our presence. We too relax and enjoy the beautiful view and the company of the funny sea dogs.
Antarctic fur seal (Arctocephalus gazella) in moss Deception Island South Shetland Islands - Sea Spirit Antarctic cruise
They're everywhere: on the beach, in the moss, even between the tanks. Males and females, adults and young. How wonderful that this is their island again today. A member of the expedition team draws our attention to the moss again. After all, we are in Antarctica, and mosses are an extremely lush vegetation in this area, and they certainly deserve some attention.
Antarctic fur seal on shore, Deception Island
Visit to the Lost Place of the South Shetland Islands
Finally, we wander along the beach and explore the dilapidated buildings. A little history can't hurt. On our journey through the past, we circle rusty tanks, take a look in crooked windows, find old graves and the remains of a tractor buried in the sand. You are not allowed to enter the ruins because there is an acute danger of them collapsing.
Graves and former whaling station on Deception Island.
Old tanks of what was once the southernmost blubber cookery on South Shetland.
Former residential building that has since been converted into a research station.
Lost Place Deception Island Whalers Bay Antarctic Expedition
Historic site of the whaling station with cauldrons in Whalers Bay.
Remains of a tractor on the volcanic beach of Deception Island.
Antarctic skuas (South polar skuas) next to planks of a ruin on Deception Island.
I like the tractor best. It's impressive how much ground must have shifted during the volcanic eruption to cause the vehicle to sink so deeply. A skua next to wood and rusty nails, however, makes me think again. It would be a good idea to clean up here. It's just a shame that this is forbidden.
Large tanks of the old whaling station on Deception Island - South Shetland Islands - Antarctica Voyage
The whaling station's residential building was converted into a research station by the British, the expedition team explains. The aircraft hangar also dates from this period. No, the aircraft is no longer there. It has since been removed. Great Britain, Argentina and Chile had stations here and laid claim to the island. Two volcanic eruptions put an end to the dispute and the island was evacuated. The cemetery was also buried at that time. "And today?" Today, Deception Island is covered by the Antarctic Treaty. The states' political claims are suspended and the remains of the whaling station are protected as a heritage site.
Animal inhabitants of Deception Island
Enough history for today. We're drawn back to the island's animal inhabitants. To our great delight, we spot two gentoo penguins. They patiently pose for our pictures and eagerly waddle back and forth between the fur seals. Deception Island is also known for its chinstrap penguins, but they live in a different part of the island, and none of them want to show up at Whalers Bay today.
A miraculous transformation
Then the weather suddenly changes and nature transforms our excursion into something very special:
First, fog gathers and the mood suddenly changes. Somehow the mountains seem bigger than before. Tiny huts, volcanic land, a mighty rocky slope and all-consuming fog towers above. The scenery becomes mystical, nature is present and the deep gray intensifies the shading of the rock into bright colors.
Ruins of Whalers Bay in the falling mist.
Then it starts raining. All of a sudden, like a secret command. Fine sleet pelts the black beach. The dark sand seems to get a little darker, a little rockier and more contrasting. In the distance, on the other hand, the contours blur, the clouds lower and the world blurs.
Iron chain and airplane hangar in sleet.
Eventually the rain solidifies into snow. And before our eyes, the coast of Deception Island turns into a new fairyland. The painter of the air delicately traces the lines of the mountains. Every single contour. Like a pencil drawing. And when his work of art is finished, the snowfall stops immediately.
Snowy coast of Deception Island.
We are fascinated by how the world around us is changing. Like a perfect theatrical production, only live. In just a few minutes all the mountains and hills on the coast are draped in a new white dress. It looks beautiful. Here too, in a lost place like this, nature has created a masterpiece for us.
The third South Shetland Island we visited on our Antarctic expedition with the Sea Spirit is Elephant Island and a beautiful iceberg and a magnificent glacier await us as a welcoming committee. The ice masses flow directly into the sea and their reflection creates a delicate blue shimmer that stands out sharply against the dark rocky cliffs. The closer we get, the more impressive it is. With binoculars and a telephoto lens we explore its wildly rugged surface. It is breathtakingly beautiful.
The beach of Shackleton's men
Then we reach the famous Point Wild on Elephant Island. The place is named after Frank Wild, Ernest Shackleton's close confidant. During Ernest Shackleton's adventurous Endurance Expedition to the Antarctic, his ship was trapped in ice and eventually destroyed. The men's fight for survival and the daring rescue mission is legendary. Frank Wild was in command of the crew that remained behind.
We have learned a lot about this Antarctic expedition from lectures on board, and so we look at Elephant Island with expert eyes. The stretch of beach on this South Shetland island looks tiny. Here, 28 men lived under three overturned rowing boats, persevered and waited for months to be rescued. It's amazing that everyone actually survived. Today, the monument to Luis Prado stands at Point Wild: a bust of the Chilean captain, with whose help Ernest Shackleton was finally able to save his men. We look through our telephoto lens and watch the chinstrap penguins that sit around the bust and have made Point Wild their home.
Unfortunately no Zodiac ride in front of Elephant Island
A Zodiac trip was actually planned off Elephant Island, but unfortunately it is too wavy to change into the small dinghies. It is not very windy, but the waves regularly splash over the marina on the lowest deck. The waves that reach us from the high seas are too strong. At least for people who are not good on foot or not seaworthy, getting on board would be dangerous. Our expedition leader decides that the risk of injury is too high and the risk too great just to get a few meters closer to the island. The swell is the problem, he explains apologetically and looks at disappointed faces. Then he quickly pulls an ace out of his sleeve: Now it's time to go whale watching.
Is there a better alternative than whales?
Instantly our faces brighten up again. Already on the way to Elephant Island we could spot a few fins in the distance when the captain had set course for the island. Now it's back with the plan to look for exactly this group and this time to observe it up close. Lift anchor: whales ahead!
Whale Watching on Antarctic Voyage with the Sea Spirit
Fin whales (Balaenoptera physalus) in Antarctic waters
Blow, back, fin. Suddenly we are right in the middle. Fountains of water splash upwards everywhere. Right a blow, then left, a third further back. Only a few seconds at a time, the backs of the whales dip through the surface, allowing us a glimpse of a small piece of the majestic animals. We are breathless because there are so many.
Humpback and fin whales in the Southern Ocean
Back and blowholes of a fin whale in the Southern Ocean
Most are fin whales, but there are also a few humpback whales. Enthusiastic shouts accompany the spectacle. There – no there – and here. Fin whales, the second largest whale species in the world and we are lucky enough to meet a whole group. Craziness. Later, the sighting of around forty animals is entered in the logbook. Fourty. Even at dinner, all passengers have a big grin on their faces.
Tourists can also discover South Shetland on an expedition ship, for example on the Sea Spirit. Explore the lonely kingdom of the cold with the AGE™ Antarctic Travel Guide.
This editorial contribution received external support
Disclosure: AGE™ were given discounted or gratuitous services from Poseidon Expeditions as part of the report. The content of the contribution remains unaffected. The press code applies.
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Liability
The experiences presented in the field report are based exclusively on true events. However, since nature cannot be planned, a similar experience cannot be guaranteed on a subsequent trip. Not even if you travel with the same provider (Poseidon Expeditions). If our experience does not match your personal experience, we assume no liability. The content of the article has been carefully researched and is based on personal experience. However, if information is misleading or incorrect, we assume no liability. Furthermore, circumstances can change. AGE™ does not guarantee topicality or completeness.
Source reference for text research
Information on site as well as personal experiences at a Expedition cruise on the Sea Spirit from Ushuaia via the South Shetland Islands, Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia and Falklands to Buenos Aires in March 2022. AGE™ stayed in a cabin with balcony on the sports deck. Poseidon Expeditions (1999-2022), Home page of Poseidon Expeditions. Traveling to Antarctica [online] Retrieved 04.05.2022-XNUMX-XNUMX, from URL: https://poseidonexpeditions.de/antarktis/
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