Guest on the seventh continent
Antarctica Trip Report Part 1:
To the End of the World (Ushuaia) and Beyond
Antarctica Trip Report Part 2:
The rugged beauty of South Shetland
Antarctica Trip Report Part 3:
A rendezvous with Antarctica
Antarctica Trip Report Part 4:
Among penguins in South Georgia
Antarctic Travel Guide • Antarctic trip • South Shetland & Antarctic Peninsula & South Georgia • Expedition ship Sea Spirit • Field report 1/2/3/4
Welcome to Antarctica, the destination of our dreams
I open my eyes and the first glance out of the window reveals it: Antarctica is ours. We have arrived! We've had them for the last two days rugged beauty of South Shetland marveled, now we have reached the next stage of our Antarctic journey: the Antarctic Peninsula lies before us. We're as excited as little children, because today we'll actually set foot on the Antarctic continent.
Our view from the Sea Spirit has become icy: Snow-covered mountains, ice break edges and snowdrifts characterize the picture. Icebergs are floating by and changing clothes just takes too long for me today. I take the first photo of the day from our balcony while still in my pajamas. Brrr. A rather uncomfortable undertaking, but I just can't let this beautiful iceberg pass by without a photo.
Ready for our first real Antarctic experience
After breakfast we pack ourselves into thick red expedition jackets. We are primed and eager to actually set foot on the Antarctic continent today. With the Sea Spirit We chose a small expedition ship for our Antarctic voyage: There are only around 100 passengers on board, so luckily we're all allowed to go ashore at the same time. Of course, not everyone can board one of the inflatable boats at the same time. So until it's our turn, we'll continue to marvel from the deck.
Fantastic view of the Antarctic Peninsula
The sky is overcast and filled with a deep, heavy grey. I would almost describe him as melancholic, but the snow-covered landscape he touches is far too beautiful for that. And maybe I'm just too happy for melancholy today.
The sea is as smooth as glass, not a breath of wind ruffles the waves and in the glow of the white wonderland the sea shines in grey-blue-white colours.
The cloud cover descends low over the bay, enveloping the icebergs in cool shadows. But next to us, as if gazing into another world, snow-covered mountains tower in softly glowing sunshine.
As if in greeting, Antarctica shines before our eyes. The moment couldn't be more perfect, and I feel truly blessed by the moment.
So now it lies before me: Antarctica. An untouched, radiant beauty. The dream of all adventurers and explorers. A place of natural forces and cold, of uncertainty and loneliness. And at the same time, a place of eternal longing and poetry.
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Antarctic Travel Guide • Antarctic trip • South Shetland & Antarctic Peninsula & South Georgia • Expedition ship Sea Spirit • Field report 1/2/3/4
Portal Point: We enter the Antarctic continent
Then the time has come. With the Zodiac we jet towards land and let them Sea Spirit behind us. Our goal is Portal Point, a landing point on the Antarctic PeninsulaAntarctic terns fly above us, beautiful icebergs float beside us, and before us lies a bright white headland dotted with tiny people. A new wave of anticipation washes over me: Our Antarctic journey has reached its destination!
Our skipper looks for a good place to land and docks on a flat, rocky stretch of coast. One by one, we swing our legs over the side, and then my feet touch the Antarctic continent.
A shore leave on the Seventh Continent
I linger on my rock for a few seconds, awed. I'm actually here – in Antarctica. Then I find a drier spot and take a few steps away from the waves. After just a few steps, the stone I'm walking on disappears into a deep, fluffy white. Finally. This is exactly how I imagined Antarctica. Icebergs and snowfields as far as the eye can see.
Although almost half of the passengers are already on land, I only see a few people. The expedition team did a great job again and marked out a route with flags that we can explore at our own pace. The guests dispersed surprisingly quickly.
I take my time and enjoy the view: Powdery white snow and angular gray rocks frame the shimmering turquoise sea. Ice floes and icebergs of all sizes and shapes drift in the bay, and in the distance, snow-capped mountains disappear on the horizon.
Weddell seal on the Antarctic Peninsula
Suddenly, I see a Weddell seal in the snow. If that isn't a perfect welcome for our first landing on the Antarctic Peninsula, I'll be happy to see you. But as I get closer, I spot a faint trail of blood nearby. I hope it's not injured? Weddell seals are hunted by leopard seals and orcas, but they usually attack pups. This Weddell seal, on the other hand, looks large, heavy, and impressive to me. I take a photo of the beautiful animal, then leave it alone. Just to be safe. Maybe it needs to recover.
It is fascinating how different a Weddell seal lying on land looks when compared to a Weddell seal swimming. If I didn't know better, I would say they are two different animals. The fur, the colour, even its shape looks different: on land it is plush, strikingly patterned, somehow oversized and pitifully clumsy when moving. Yet in the water she is sleek, drab grey, perfectly proportioned and surprisingly agile.
During our Antarctic voyage, we learned a few interesting facts about these impressive marine mammals on board: Weddell seals can dive to depths of up to 600 meters. The lecture impressed me. But even more impressive is seeing this animal and standing next to it: in Antarctica.
Hike through the snow to the Portal Point lookout
The expedition team's route, marked with flags, leads me away from the coast, through the snow, up the hill, and then toward the cliffs. One fantastic view follows the next, and at the same time, we're still breathless at the thought that we're standing in Antarctica. Even we, who almost always forget to take pictures of ourselves, take a few souvenir photos: We were here.
We'd love to go even further, right up to the icy edge of the cliff and peer down into the sea, but that would be far too dangerous. You never know where a piece of ice might suddenly break off, explains our expedition leader. That's why we stop at the crossed flags the expedition team has placed for us. They mark the area we're allowed to explore and warn of danger zones.
The perfect Antarctic panorama
Once at the top, we collapse into the snow and enjoy the perfect Antarctic panorama. This is exactly how I imagined Antarctica. This is exactly how I dreamed this day would be: White expanse as far as the eye can see, a secluded bay, and our small cruise ship anchored among icebergs.
In the distance we spot another guest. He seems tiny in the majestic landscape and even the Sea Spirit looks like a toy boat here. One thing is clear: Antarctica dictates the rules here – we are merely guests. And yet, humanity's actions also threaten the Antarctic continent. I hope and wish that future generations will also be able to experience the wonders of Antarctica.
Individual Antarctica travel experiences
Everyone can use the time on land as they wish: there is an endless selection of photo motifs for photographers, two documentary filmmakers start filming, a few guests sit in the snow and simply enjoy the moment, and the by far youngest participants of this Antarctic trip, two Dutch boys aged six and eight, spontaneously start a snowball fight.
Anyone who wants to can also have their photo taken with the expedition team. "Antarctic Expedition" or "On the Seventh Continent" is written on the signs, which some guests enthusiastically hold up. We prefer to enjoy the scenery instead.
We spot the kayakers among the icebergs: the small group pays extra and is allowed to go on a kayak tour. They'll join us later for a short shore excursion. Surely a unique experience! For me, though, I wouldn't want to be anywhere else right now.
We lie in the snow, enjoying the view, taking photos, trying out different angles, and admiring each individual iceberg. And there are a lot of them! Most are brilliant white, others glow turquoise blue. I could sit here forever. I gaze, mesmerized, into the vastness and breathe in the Antarctic. We've arrived.
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Antarctic Travel Guide • Antarctic trip • South Shetland & Antarctic Peninsula & South Georgia • Expedition ship Sea Spirit • Field report 1/2/3/4
Antarctic waters: icebergs in the Southern Ocean
After this wonderful first landing on the Antarctic continent, our Antarctic journey continues with the Sea Spirit Onward. A Zodiac cruise to Cierva Cove is planned for this afternoon, but already on the way there, one photo opportunity follows the next: the coast of the Antarctic Peninsula rises white, mountainous, and untouched; we pass enormous icebergs of all sizes and shapes, and in the distance, the fins and tail flukes of migrating humpback whales appear.
Suddenly, as if there were an invisible border, a carpet of drifting ice begins to enclose us: thousands of small and tiny ice sheets float next to us and are pushed by the hull of the Sea Spirit pushed aside. All around us we hear faint cracking, clinking, and crackling. The ice whispers.
Gradually the dark clouds of the morning disappear and the sky changes to a radiant blue. The sun is shining and the white mountains of the Antarctic Peninsula are beginning to be reflected in the sea. We enjoy the view, the sea air and the sun's rays with a cup of steaming tea on our balcony. What a journey. What a life.
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Antarctic Travel Guide • Antarctic trip • South Shetland & Antarctic Peninsula & South Georgia • Expedition ship Sea Spirit • Field report 1/2/3/4
Cierva Cove: Drift ice and Antarctic animals
In the afternoon we reach Cierva Cove, our second destination of the day. From afar, the small red houses of a research station gleam on the rocky shore, but landing is not permitted here. Instead, a Zodiac ride is planned.
We set off in sturdy inflatable boats into the icy bay: it's filled with icebergs and drift ice. The view is breathtaking. Some of the ice comes directly from the glaciers at Cierva Cove, while the rest was blown into the bay by westerly winds, a team member explains. Sea SpiritWe're lucky: we rarely see as much ice here as we do today.
And what could be better than cruising among drifting ice and icebergs on an Antarctic voyage? Of course, spotting penguins, Weddell seals, and leopard seals.
Cierva Cove is not only known for its amazing icebergs and glaciers, but also for frequent leopard seal sightings.
Leopard seals, penguins and Weddel seals
We are also lucky and can spot several leopard seals on ice floes from the inflatable boat. They look adorable asleep and often they just seem to be smiling happily. But appearances are deceptive. Next to the orcas, this seal species is the most dangerous hunter in Antarctica. As well as eating krill and fish, they regularly hunt penguins and even attack Weddell seals. So it's better to leave your hands in the dinghy.
We slowly circle the ice floe in the dinghy to get a better look at the sleeping hunter. He's unperturbed and just smiles thoughtfully. What could he be dreaming about? Then we move on: marveling at the icebergs, absorbing the incredible landscape, and paying a visit to the next leopard seal. He gives us a hearty yawn, reminding us once again that he has some sharp teeth.
In the distance, a chinstrap penguin sits enthroned on a rock, posing for us against the snowy landscape of the Antarctic Peninsula. He is an old acquaintance, as he has been on Halfmoon Island We were able to see an entire colony of this cute penguin species. And the journey continues through the drifting ice, as our skipper has already spotted the next species: a fat Weddell seal blinks at us from the next ice floe.
At first, I can only tell the two seal species apart at second glance, but we quickly get to grips with each other. The non-scientific rule of thumb of the day is: Weddell seals are the fat ones, leopard seals are the lucky ones. Later, we even manage to get that long-awaited photo of the penguin on the ice.
A breathtaking Zodiac ride through Antarctic ice
This Zodiac cruise has everything you could dream of from an Antarctic voyage: seals and penguins, drifting ice and icebergs, snowy coasts in the sunshine, and time—time—to enjoy it all. We cruise for three hours off the Antarctic Peninsula. It's a good thing we're all warmly dressed, because without exercise, we'd freeze pretty quickly. Thanks to the sun, it's surprisingly warm today: only -2°C, we read later in the logbook.
The small group of our kayakers has a little more exercise and certainly has a lot of fun in this dreamlike setting. With the Zodiacs we can venture a little further into the drift ice. Some icebergs look like sculptures, another even forms a narrow bridge. The cameras are running hot.
Suddenly, a group of gentoo penguins appears and hopscotches across the water and past us. They're incredibly fast, and unfortunately, I don't manage to capture the moment on camera before they disappear from view again. However, a little later, I do catch a jumping chinstrap penguin and get my photo.
More and more ice is pushing into the bay. In some places, I can barely see the water's surface for all the drifting ice. The low angle of view from the Zodiac brings us almost to the same height as the ice floes. The feeling of drifting among the ice is indescribable. Finally, the ice chunks envelop our dinghy and bounce off the Zodiac's bulging air tube with a soft, dull click as the small boat slowly moves forward. It's beautiful, and for a moment, I touch one of the chunks of ice next to me.
Eventually, the engine of one of the Zodiacs fails. We're nearby and jump-start it. Then the two boats slowly glide together out of the intimate embrace of the icy Southern Ocean.
Leopard seal eats penguin – nature takes its toll
Enough ice for today. Finally, we take a short detour toward the coast. On the snow-free rocks, we spot a host of penguins: Gentoo and chinstrap penguins standing together in harmony. But suddenly, there's movement in the water. A leopard seal swims to the surface, wildly tossing its head back and forth. We didn't see how, but it must have just caught a penguin.
The hunter's head repeatedly appears above the water's surface and hurls its prey left and right. Perhaps it's a good thing that we can hardly tell that this was once a penguin. Something fleshy hangs in its mouth, is shaken around, released, and then snatched up again. It's in the process of skinning the penguin, our nature guide explains. This makes it easier to eat it. Petrels circle above the leopard seal, delighting in the few pieces of meat that fall off for them. Life in the Antarctic is harsh and—even for a penguin—by no means without danger.
After this extraordinary wildlife viewing, we return on board, but not without enjoying the fantastic reflection that accompanies us on the way back to the Sea Spirit accompanied:
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Antarctic Travel Guide • Antarctic trip • South Shetland & Antarctic Peninsula & South Georgia • Expedition ship Sea Spirit • Field report 1/2/3/4
A spectacular sunset in Antarctica
Our first day in Antarctica couldn't have been more perfect. We stand happily at the railing of the Sea Spirit and enjoy the view of the Antarctic Peninsula and Cierva Cove once again. The evening sun bathes the Antarctic mainland in a soft golden glow, and we still can't get enough of this dream of snow and ice. Then the sun gradually sinks toward the horizon, the bay is shrouded in crackling shadows, and the first colors adorn the sky.
Since we're traveling to Antarctica in March, we won't experience the midnight sun on our expedition cruise, but we'll have the chance to enjoy beautiful sunsets. We'll make ourselves comfortable on our balcony with a steaming cup of tea.
We savor the moment, our box seats, and the unique interplay of delicate colors between sky, water, and ice. A perfect evening after a perfect day. I am enchanted, no, enraptured by the never-ending beauty. By the time glowing red clouds finally drift across the ice, I've long since lost all sense of space and time. I am, and I drift with them, through the feeling of exuberant happiness.
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Antarctic Travel Guide • Antarctic trip • South Shetland & Antarctic Peninsula & South Georgia • Expedition ship Sea Spirit • Field report 1/2/3/4
Curious to see how our Antarctic journey continues?
There will be more photos & texts soon: This article is still being edited
Tourists can also discover Antarctica on an expedition ship, for example on the Sea Spirit.
Explore the lonely kingdom of the cold with the AGE™ Antarctic Travel Guide.
Antarctic Travel Guide • Antarctic trip • South Shetland & Antarctic Peninsula & South Georgia • Expedition ship Sea Spirit • Field report 1/2/3/4
Enjoy the AGE™ Image Gallery: Antarctica
Travel when dreams come true
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Antarctic Travel Guide • Antarctic trip • South Shetland & Antarctic Peninsula & South Georgia • Expedition ship Sea Spirit • Field report 1/2/3/4
The experiences presented in the field report are based exclusively on true events. However, since nature cannot be planned, a similar experience cannot be guaranteed on a subsequent trip. Not even if you travel with the same provider (Poseidon Expeditions). If our experience does not match your personal experience, we assume no liability. The content of the article has been carefully researched and is based on personal experience. However, if information is misleading or incorrect, we assume no liability. Furthermore, circumstances can change. AGE™ does not guarantee topicality or completeness.
Information on site as well as personal experiences at a Expedition cruise on the Sea Spirit from Ushuaia via the South Shetland Islands, Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia and Falklands to Buenos Aires in March 2022. AGE™ stayed in a cabin with balcony on the sports deck.
Poseidon Expeditions (1999-2022), Home page of Poseidon Expeditions. Traveling to Antarctica [online] Retrieved 04.05.2022-XNUMX-XNUMX, from URL: https://poseidonexpeditions.de/antarktis/